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敘非遺·尋找記憶|貴州清鎮(zhèn)四印苗挑花藝術將亮相米蘭時裝周
貴州文化網(wǎng) 發(fā)表于:2023-09-17 14:29:36 來源:貴州衛(wèi)視國際傳播部 作者: 點擊: 評論:0

貴州省清鎮(zhèn)市麥格苗族布依族鄉(xiāng),是典型的少數(shù)民族聚居區(qū)。散居在這里的人群,主要是苗族支系之一——四印苗。他們的服飾有很鮮明的特色,服飾靚麗,刺繡精巧。上衣的胸前、后背及兩袖上各綴有一個用五色絲線挑花而成的正方形圖案,恍若四尊大印,古樸迷離。

Located in Qingzhen, a county-level city under the administration of Guiyang, capital of Guizhou Province, the Maige Miao and Bouyei ethnic township is a region mainly inhabited by the “Four Seals Miao”, a branch of the Miao people. Their clothing has distinctive features, with a five-color square pattern embroidered on the chest, the back and two sleeves of the upper garment. The four square patterns look like four seals, mysterious and ancient.

“四尊大印”圖案是四印苗的民族符號,透過這些依附在圖案上的信息,“復制”了他們歷史的“窗口”和“活化石”。服飾圖案記錄了本民族的族源史、遷徙史和生存史,充分展示了四印苗女高超刺繡功底和對民族傳承的延續(xù),也更加體現(xiàn)了四印苗盛裝的藝術性,向世人詮釋著四印苗悠久的歷史和燦爛的文化。

The Four Great Seals are the symbol of the Four Seals Miao people. Through the patterns on the seals, the Four Seals Miao people have captured the history of their origin, migration and survival. These patterns demonstrate the artistic quality of the Four Seals Miao’s splendid attire and the superb embroidery skills of the Four Seals Miao women. They also serve as the “living fossil” of the long history and splendid culture of the Four Seals Miao people.

四印苗繡有四種繡法,鎖針、插針、網(wǎng)繡、十字挑花繡。最主要的針法是網(wǎng)繡和鎖繡,現(xiàn)在的服裝用得較多的是十字挑花繡。整套服飾包括:頭帕、衣服、裙子,均為手工制作。四印苗的服飾的技藝需要沉下心勤學苦練才能掌握精髓,工藝需要后繼有人,民族傳統(tǒng)才能代代延續(xù)。

The Four Seals Miao people use four types of embroidery techniques, namely lock embroidery, sticking, net embroidery and cross-stitching. Net embroidery and lock embroidery are the two main methods, while cross-stitching is more commonly used in modern tailoring. The whole outfit of the Four Seals Miao includes a head scarf, an upper garment and a dress, all of which are handmade. Strenuous effort is required by those who wish to become a master of the embroidery techniques of the Four Seals Miao people. Only when these techniques have inheritors, can ethnic traditions be passed down.

“四印”苗族盛裝制作,展現(xiàn)了苗族女性高超的美術創(chuàng)造才能,同時也是復制四印族傳統(tǒng)文化的有效工具。盛裝的制作過程具有重大的歷史價值、文化價值、社會價值和藝術價值。四印苗族是一個遷徙的民族,他們把服裝作為一條聯(lián)接這個民族的紐帶,是服裝使他們產生一體感、歸屬感,是服裝的紋飾和圖案這種特殊的“語言”使他們產生了凝聚力。

Of great historical, cultural, social and artistic values, the making of the Four Seals Miao’s clothing not only shows the Miao women’s artistic talent, but also serves as an effective tool to carry on the traditional culture of the Four Seals Miao. As a migrating ethnic group, the Four Seals Miao people regard clothing as a special bond and the patterns on their clothing as a special language. It is their clothing that gives them a sense of unity and belonging and the patterns on their clothing that help bind them closer together.

?由中國駐米蘭總領事館

貴州省人民政府共同主辦的

《中國苗·藝術展》

將于9月24日在意大利米蘭舉行

貴州苗繡精品服飾將與

國際大牌服飾同臺亮相

2024春夏米蘭時裝周

距離開展:10 天!


出品:貴州衛(wèi)視國際傳播部

指導單位:貴州省文化和旅游廳

鳴謝:清鎮(zhèn)市文體廣電旅游局

麥格苗族布依族鄉(xiāng)人民政府

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